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My Approach to Menswear Design

bySaggar MehraStudio at Defence Colony, New DelhiStarts from22,000 Per Co-ord SetView full gallery

I view menswear as a canvas for exploring the tension between chaos and structure. Every garment I build is a dialogue between the art I imagine and the tailoring that brings it to life.

A glimpse into my world, where instinct guides detail and every silhouette begins with purpose. In my own words, I explain how I organize chaos by constructing, deconstructing, and reconstructing language in design.

The unknown is not a void, it is a beginning. This image captures the essence of "The Gates" collection, an entry into spaces of illusion and discovery where boundaries blur.

Every line begins as a thought. This sketch for "The Gates" collection shows how a concept, born at the edge of illusion, first reveals itself on paper before it is translated into form and fabric.

"The Gates" is an invitation to step beyond the visible, where illusion meets truth and structure gives way to chaos. This abstract visual represents the core tension of control and freedom in my work.

Disruption, Energy, Illusion. This graphic represents the core themes of my A/W 25 collection, viewed through an archway that acts as a gate to a new perspective.

Every collection begins with a question. This mood board of textures and details from the A/W 25 collection asks you to step closer, past what you see, and into what you feel.

Fragments of a vision for "The Gates" A/W 2025. This video shows patterns that pulse like energy and textures that breathe, distort, and expand, forming the living language of the collection.

The emblem is more than a mark. The gorilla represents what I stand for: strength without noise, evolution without compromise. This is the new face of Saggar Mehra.

A collection where ritual meets rebellion and tradition confronts the future. This note defines my exploration of the space between symbolism and structure through garments that are emotional and engineered.

From raw to commanding form. This image and text capture my process: every piece begins with instinct and ends in precision. Tailoring is not just technique; it's a second skin.

About The Design Philosophy

My design process is rarely linear. I start with a sketch that often feels chaotic, then I spend hours at the cutting table deconstructing the traditional form of a suit or kurta. We do not just stitch fabric together; we build the internal architecture of the garment using half-canvas or full-canvas construction to ensure the weight of the embroidery sits perfectly on your frame. It is the invisible work inside that makes the silhouette hold its ground.

The Architecture of the Garment

Design is not just about the final visual; it is about the engineering. Whether I am working on an avant-garde tuxedo or a structured kurta, the internal construction is paramount. I use proprietary half-canvas and full-canvas techniques to provide the necessary support for heavy surface ornamentation, ensuring the fabric moves with the wearer rather than restricting them.

Symbolism as a Language

You will notice recurring motifs across my collections, such as the gorilla, butterflies, and lotuses. These are not merely decorative elements. To me, the gorilla represents strength without noise, while butterflies symbolize the balance I seek in every silhouette. When I place a pearl lotus on an achkan, it is an intentional choice to blend traditional Indian imagery with modern menswear sensibilities.

The 'Gates' Concept

My A/W 2025 collection, 'The Gates', explores the threshold between the known and the unknown. This series is an exercise in distortion and expansion, where textures are meant to breathe and pulse. It is an invitation to look past the surface-level finish and appreciate the structural shifts I have introduced to classic pieces.

Why My Studio in Defence Colony?

Because I handle everything from the initial sketch to the final fitting, having a central space in Delhi is crucial. It allows me to maintain a direct relationship with the work and the person wearing it. If you want to understand how a garment is built from the inside out, I invite you to visit the studio. We can discuss how to translate your personal style into a piece that is engineered to fit like a second skin.

Studio located in Defence Colony, DelhiApproved by the tribe
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Saggar Mehra

Studio at Defence Colony, New DelhiStarts from 22,000 Per Co-ord Set

I am Saggar. I do not just design clothes; I experiment with fabric to see how far I can push traditional silhouettes before they break. My studio is where I turn raw ideas into something you can actually wear, whether it is a suit with industrial hardware or a hand-embroidered jacket.

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